/>Surely this haunting scenery inspired many of the local legends, including tales of goblin spirits that live alone in the puna, the Altiplano, and enjoy tormenting rural travelers. Peasants say these lonesome goblins can sometimes be heard singing sad songs amid the hills.
Like the ekeko, the Clark Gable-faced amulet dressed in a bright poncho, standing agape and with open arms waiting for good fortune to arrive, Jujuy may be ready for a new future, but never at the expense of its quirky style.
“Jujuy has a unique essence,” Mr. Tezanos Pintos said. “We have our own stamp.”
GETTING THERE
Aerolíneas Argentinas has daily direct flights from Buenos Aires to San Salvador de Jujuy, the provincial capital. A recent Web search found flights starting at 0. Another option is to fly from Buenos Aires into nearby Salta (LAN Airlines has daily flights) and drive 60 miles north to Jujuy.
Jujuy’s Quebrada de Humahuaca has temperate days and cool nights year-round, with considerably warmer weather from December through March. Carnaval in February, Holy Week in March and Pachamama in August are the most important celebrations.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Huacalera (Route 9, Huacalera; 54-388-155813417; www.hotelhuacalera.com). This spacious colonial-style ranch in the heart of the Quebrada de Humahuaca has folkloric-chic rooms, a pool and spa. Doubles from 397 Argentine pesos, or 3 at 3.86 pesos to the dollar, including buffet breakfast.
Casa Colorada (Route 9, Tilcara; 54-11-43247604; www.casacolorada.com.ar). A secluded high-altitude retreat surrounded by mountain peaks, sandstone quarries and a reserve of giant cactuses. Guests can book horseback rides and treks. Doubles